"Itchy."
"Tasty."
Welcome readers to Racoon city! This is part 1 of my Legacy step by step painting guides for Resident Evil 2 The Board Game. This article will be covering the final 2 step by step painting guides I posted on the official Resident Evil Board Game Facebook group, those being number 12: Zombies, Dogs & Crows and number 13: the bonus stuff.
The reason I'm doing these first, is that both these step by steps are the only ones where I used Games Workshops Contrast Paint range. I figured it best that readers use the more common enemies for practicing on, before tackling the more important mini's like the bosses and player characters and there's the added bonus of if you make a mistake just cover it up with blood.
*Extra note* Everything covered here can be applied to the miniatures found in the other Resident Evil board games made by Steamforged Games.
When I initially wrote these step by steps the only company doing these types of paints was Games Workshop, but since then, they have improved some of their Contrast paints and added more paints to that range. Other companies have started releasing similar paints as well, so please don't feel obligated to stick to what I'm using here.
The other ranges are:
Army Painters speed painting range (which I have a fair bias of not using due to previous experiences)
Vallejo Xpress Color (which I might try as I have good experiences with their other paints so far)
Anyway that's enough Jibba, Jabba out of me, lets get on with painting!
Zombies & Corpse Tokens
For the Zombies, as there have been multiple colour palettes for Zombies over the various Resident Evil games, I will be advising of the different ways to paint the skin, you can use the same methods for the skin on the corpse tokens.
First up I would recommend undercoating everything in a white undercoat, so feel free to pick from any of the following:
Games Workshop: White Scar (neutral white),
Games Workshop: Wraithbone (Warmer White),
Games Workshop: Grey Seer (Colder White),
Army Painter: Matt White,
Natural Tone
1. Paint in Contrast Darkoath Flesh
2. Create a mix of Contrast Creed Camo and Contrast Medium (2:1 ratio).
Fresher Skin Tone
1. Rakarth Flesh
2. Cadian Fleshtone
3. Athonian Camoshade
4. Kislve flesh
5. Ushabti Bone
Green Skin
1. Paint 1 layer of Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh.
2. Once dry paint 1 layer of Contrast Aethermatic Blue
Darker Skin
1. 2:1 mix of Contrast Wyldwood: Contrast Medium or if you want darker skin no mix
2. Drybrush Gorthor Brown
3. Wash of 1:1 mix of Drakenhof Nightshade: Contrast Medium
Blue-ish Purple Skin
1. Wash Druchii Violet with medium 1-2 mix
2. Wash Drakenhorf Nightshade with medium 1-1 mix if too much applied can use a cotten bud to rub off excess.
3. Very light Drybrush white scar
Cerberus (Dogs)
There's 2 ways of doing the dog's, either you do the undercoat of white and paint them in Black Templar, followed by the other steps or you do the steps first up to step 5 and then apply the Black Templar.
1. After the undercoat we will paint the exposed muscle, this is done with Tuskgor fur followed by a wash of Carroburg Crimson.
2. Next we need to highlight these by painting along the muscle fibres using gradually smaller layers of Tuskgor fur (make sure avoid painting in the recesses), Squig Orange and a slight highlight of Cadian Fleshtone.
3. The bones and eyes can be painted in Ulthan Grey.
4. Any areas we want to keep black need to be tidied up, as if your like me there's gonna be some leakage into these areas. Use wraithbone white to patch up these areas, using a 1:1 mix of wraithbone to contrast medium, wait for the paint to dry before applying more layers.
5. Paint all areas in Contrast Black Templar, I would only recommend one even coat and avoid painting over it's self.
6. Paint the feet, Snout and Eyebrows in Doombull brown, followed by a highlight of Gorthor Brown.
7. Apply matt Varnish and once dry apply Blood for the Blood God to any areas you wish to have bloody (use sparingly).
Crows
Crows are pretty straightforward, as you can just paint them in Black Templar, and give a minor highlight of Fenrisian Grey. As for the corpse that they are sitting on, just copy the steps you did for the zombies.
& More! (Tokens & Scenery)
So here we are the bonus content! A lot of the technique's I'm going over today can be used on similar tokens/scenery found in the other Resident Evil Games.
I'll go through the process of painting each of the different materials you will come across and then afterwards outline the special effects used to make them a but more visceral, also don't worry too much about fixing mistakes as you can just cover it up with our effect paints afterwards.
Brick work
1. Undercoat in a light cream colour, I used Vallejo Skeleton Bone Surface primer paint via airbrush. You can paint this stuff on, but it will require a good few thinned out coats to get a decent base coat. Alternatively if you don't use Vallejo, you can use citadels skull white spray can and then paint a few layers of screaming skull over that (only need to paint the crevices).
2. Apply red to the bricks taking care to avoid filling in the crevices. I used a very old discontinued red, but Vallejo Pure Red surface primer is a good shout or for citadel Mepheston Red mixed with a light brown (3:1 mix of red to brown) should get you the reddish brick colour.
When applying the red you can just paint it on if you have a steady hand, if you're like me and you don't, you can cheat by using a large makeup brush and lightly build up the red by drybrushing. This can leed to accidentally painting into the recess, but this can lend to the effect of the bricks eroding away (or you can just paint cream back over any mistakes in the recesses).
3. Optional Dust/muk. For bricks you can lightly drybrush a few areas with a brownish Orange (Jokaero Orange) and/or a few patches of a brown. If you do opt to do this I recommend being sparing with it.
Wood work
1. Undercoat in a white
2. Apply a coat of Gore-Grunta Fur contrast to any areas you want shadow or use to make an area where the colour is offset.
3. Before the Gore-Grunta dries, apply a coat of Snakebite Leather Contrast to all other areas and allow it to bleed into the borders of the Gore-Grunta painted areas.
4. If the wood is used for an indoor furnishing, it would likely have a protective coat and
sheen, so apply a coat of gloss varnish to the wood.
Metals
1. Undercoat black.
2. Paint all metal sections in a dark metal colour like Vallejo Gunmetal or citadel Leadbelcher.
3. Paint raised areas or areas you want to be brighter in a lighter metal like Vallejo chainmail silver or citadel Ironbreaker.
4. Apply contrast paint of your choice. The colours I used that worked out quite well where:
Terradon Turquoise,
Talasar Blue,
Creed camo (2 coats),
Black Templar mixed with Aethermatic Blue (1:2 mix)
5. Apply slight edge highlights on raised areas with Vallejo Silver or Citadel Stormhost Silver. (We are only aiming for areas where it's likely the paint has been chipped off due to everyday ware and tare of opening and closing doors).
Applying Extra effects
Just a heads up it's very easy to go overboard on effects and over saturate the model, so as much fun as it is, try not to go too overboard. If it helps I've accidentally done this on a few of these miniatures while making this tutorial, just use it to learn and gauge what's an appropriate level of effect for the rest of your pieces.
When determining where an effect will be, you can either go random, but I find it's a little bit better if you create a mini story behind it. For example, a poor civilian gets slashed by a licker when trying to escape through the door, but is caught right as they reach the door.
The claws are long enough where they cleave through the door then the civilian and then again through the door. With this idea I can then do 3 or 4 claw marks on my door using the scratch marks method. I'm imagining an upwards since so I'll have the claw marks start off slightly thicker on the bottom and then have them really thin on the top.
Then using the blood method, I'll add blood stains to the claw marks, that start about half way up the scratches and then at the end I'll put some blood splatter around the top of the claw mark. Giving further reality that the blood is being flicked off the claws and civilian as the licker finishes his swipe.
Paint chippings/scratch marks
Pretty simple get some of our previous silver on to your thinnest brush (or tooth pick), make sure the brush isn't overloaded by wiping off the excess on to your palette or back of your hand and do a few quick slashes or flicks on to your target area.
Rust
First off, if you use a gloss varnish after painting, you want to apply the rust after you have varnished the mini. If you use a matt varnish then you can do the varnish after everything has been painted.
1. Apply patches of citadel Typhus Corrusion to where you want rust patches. Typhus Corrusion has chunks of pigments/bits which helps give your painting area a texture.
2. Once dry, get your rust colour which can be either Vallejo game effects Rust or Citadel Dry Brush Ryza Rust. As you can tell from the name you simply just lightly drybrush over the Corrusion with our rust colour.
3. Optional extra 1. Rust doesn't always stay on a surface and can actually chip off. what we can do to show this is to lightly paint on a few areas our silver/storm host silver on places where the rust would chip off, which is usually raised areas like the edges of bolts.
4. Optional extra 2. Rust can go a step further if if exposed to rain as it becomes even more oxidised. So we can add some citadel Nihilakh Oxide, thin this out a bit as we only want it in a few recesses to add to the rust and not to overpower it.
Blood
If you use matt varnish after painting your mini's I would advise adding blood after you have add varnish to the mini, as a lot of Blood paints have a built in gloss varnish effect and you don't want to dull that effect.
1. Preferably I found you get a brighter effect if you do a foundation of a red colour for any large pools of blood, anything like Mepheston Red will do. For droplets you can just use the blood colour itself and bead it on.
2. You can use either Citdael's Blood for the blood god or Green Stuff World's True blood. Personally I prefer True Blood as it's in a dropper bottle. To apply either just load a dollap onto your brush tip and slap it on top of your pre-painted red areas. This stuff does build up, so once it's dry you can add more of it on top, to get raised blood areas.
3. Blood splatter, there's several ways you can go about doing this, one of these are the controlled method. Simply take you thinnest brush or a toothpick get the slightest bead of blood on the tip and then do some quick dabs on your target area. The second method is sponging, you can use a weathering brush (essentially sponge stuffed down a rod) or make your own out of basic sponge torn up into long thin pieces (long so you can grip onto it better). Dab the brush into a pool of blood and then lightly dab it into your target area.
Vomit/poison
This can be done before or after varnishing depending on if you want it to look like its dried or wet. Usually these will have a slight gloss finish to them, so if you want it to look dried and crusty save the matt varnish for after you have painted on the vomit/poison.
1. There's 2 different versions I have come across one is Vallejo game effects vomit and the other is Citadel Nurgle's Rot which is slightly darker than Vallejo's Vomit colour, so you could use a mix of both.
2. Vomit has the same principles as blood except I find it doesn't work as well when trying to make a pool. It best works if you use the sponge method and go for a splatter.
3. Optional extra, if you want to create burn marks for acid or give the vomit more texture to work with apply a few patches of citadel Typhus Corrusion. For acid you want larger patches, the paint your vomit on top, but leaving a border of corrosion still visible around your vomit stain. For vomit just paint directly over the Typhus Corrusion.
Other Tokens
You can paint the item tokens up using the tips I've mentioned so far
The ink ribbons are nice and easy, just start with a black, drybrush a shade of grey, add a wash of Nuln Oil and a very light drybrush of the grey again. For the chest Black
Non Official Stuff
To make things a bit easier to understand at a quick glance, I had a friend 3d print some tokens to indicate the danger levels of unexplored rooms. Resident Evil 2 didn't have any tokens to indicate these colours, but this got amended for Resident Evil 3.
I used these as an excuse to try out Green Stuff Worlds Fluor paint range.
I also purchased a cheap set of sci-fi walls to use during the lab portions of the game, you can find all sorts of things on Amazon, Ebay or even your local hobby store.
And that rounds up the first of these step by steps painting guides for Resident Evil 2 and a quick peek at how contrast paints can speed up the paint process, I hope you all found it helpful and leave you thoughts for ideas or improvements in the comments. :D
Martin
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